Tutorial: Christmas Reverse Applique shirt

One of the great classes that I got to take at SPARK 3 was learning how to make reverse applique shirts from Amy Tangerine. The technique was so fun and so easy that I knew I wanted to use it to make a Christmas shirt for Maren. I purchased a red shirt from Target, and the fabric is scraps leftover from a vintage tablecloth that I cut apart a few years ago for another project.

For the shape, I knew that I wanted to trace a Christmas tree-shaped cookie cutter that we have. For reverse applique, basic bold shapes are easiest to work with. I also used a disappearing ink pen and some matching green embroidery floss.

The first step is to find the center of your shirt and mark it with a few straight pins. I actually ruined my first shirt when I 1) tried to just eyeball the center and 2) used a ballpoint pen instead of a disappearing ink pen. Let's just say that I'll be making for Maren a reverse applique Valentine's Day shirt with a BIG pink heart shape in the middle! So trust me, take the one minute needed and mark the center--you don't even need to use a ruler, simply fold the shirt in half, armpit to armpit.

Next, you'll trace your shape. In Amy Tangerine's class we used ballpoint pens, which will generally wash out if you spray them with a bit of hairspray or rubbing alcohol. I don't know what happened with the pen I used on that first red shirt, but it would NOT come out even though I treated it multiple times with hairspray, alcohol, stain pre-treater and even Carbona wipes. Head to JoAnn's with your 40% off coupon and buy a disappearing ink pen made for sewing.

Next, you'll need to flip your shirt inside out. You want your fabric scrap to be larger than your design, because it's hard to get it pinned precisely into place if it's too small. Secure the fabric scrap to the shirt using straight pins, taking care to only pin it to one layer.

 Now you'll turn the shirt back right side out and begin to sew. In Amy's class we used embroidery floss (all 6 strands), but for her shirts that she sells, she actually uses pearl cotton. I have lots of colors of floss so it's easier for me to just use that. Thread your needle with no more than a yard of thread and tie a knot in the end. Start coming up from the bottom so that your knot will be hidden on the back. Here is the CRITICAL part: you are NOT sewing on the lines you drew. Let me repeat that--you are NOT sewing on the lines you drew! You are actually making your stitches about 1/4" OUTSIDE of your pen line. Your pen line will later become your cut line. Continue sewing around the entire design. How long your stitches and how far apart they are is up to you. Once you come back to the starting place, make another knot and cut your thread.

Turn the shirt inside out again. Now you're going to trim your fabric about 1/2" outside your stitches.

Turn the shirt right side out again. You'll be able to see your stitches and your drawn shape. Now is the fun part--you're going to reveal the fabric!

Very carefully pinch ONLY the top layer of t-shirt fabric and snip it with your scissors, then follow your drawn line and cut all the way around. Sometimes, my stitches weren't exactly 1/4" inch from my drawn line, so I just take care to make my cuts evenly spaced from the stitches. Remember, any ink lines that show will disappear when you wash the shirt.

And...ta-da! Admire your cute reverse applique shirt! Maren wore this yesterday to her class Christmas party and program. When I dug through my cookie cutters to find the tree, I found a few others that would make really cute reverse applique designs:

I definitely think Maren will be sporting a bunny shirt for Easter, and Porter needs a shirt with that cool airplane shape! The best part about this craft is that you only need a tiny bit of fabric, so you can be creative. You don't even have to do a shirt--you can do a bag, apron, hat, or anything made out of fabric. This is definitely a craft I'll be doing again and again!